Wooden flooring quotes from flooring specialists
New solid and engineered wood floors, parquet, and sanding and sealing of existing floors. Tell us what you need and up to 3 specialists quote.
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How it works
Tell us about the job
A few questions about what you need and where you are. There's no account to create.
Get up to 3 quotes
Wooden flooring specialists that work in your area contact you with a price.
Compare and choose
Weigh up price, timing and what's included. Accept the one that suits you, or none.
Solid or engineered?
Engineered wood looks the same as solid wood once it's down, because the surface is real timber. For most new floors over concrete in South African homes, it's the more practical choice. Solid wood remains the choice for those who want a floor that can be sanded back many times over decades.
| Solid wood | Engineered wood | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Each board is one piece of timber | A real wood top layer bonded to a stable plywood or softwood core |
| Stability | Moves more as humidity changes, so it can gap or cup | Much more stable, so it suits wider boards and changing conditions |
| Sanding | Can be sanded and refinished many times over its life | Can be sanded a limited number of times, depending on the thickness of the top layer |
| Underfloor heating | Generally not recommended | Usually compatible, with the manufacturer's approval |
How wood floors are laid
- Glued down to a level screed: the most solid feel, and common for engineered boards and parquet.
- Floating on an underlay, with boards joined to each other but not fixed to the floor: quicker, and suits some engineered ranges.
- Nailed or screwed to timber battens or a suspended timber subfloor: the traditional method for solid boards.
Moisture is the main risk
Timber takes up moisture from its surroundings. Boards laid on a screed that hasn't dried out, or over concrete without a moisture barrier, swell and cup. A good installer measures the moisture in the screed and the timber before laying, and lets the boards acclimatise to the room first.
Sanding and sealing an existing floor
Old wooden and parquet floors that look grey, scratched or worn are often in good condition under the surface. Sanding removes the old finish and the top layer of damage, back to clean timber; the floor is then sealed.
Finishes range from polyurethane varnishes, hard-wearing and available in matt to gloss, to oils and hardwax oils, which soak into the wood and give a natural look and are easier to touch up in patches. Ask each specialist which finish they recommend for how you use the room.
Sanding is dusty work. Professional sanders with good dust extraction make a big difference. Expect to move out of the rooms being done while the finish cures.
Parquet
Parquet floors, laid in blocks in herringbone, basket-weave and other patterns, are common in older South African homes. Loose blocks can usually be re-glued, missing ones replaced with reclaimed blocks, and the whole floor sanded and sealed to look new. Ask restorers whether they have matching reclaimed blocks before you commit.
What wooden flooring costs
Published 2026 rates put engineered wood at roughly R950 to R1,800 per m² supplied and laid, and solid hardwood at R1,300 to R2,500 per m². If you already have timber underfoot, sanding and resealing it typically runs R230 to R450 per m², so restoring is often the cheaper route.
- Engineered wood, supplied and installed
- R950–R1,800/m²
- Solid hardwood, supplied and installed
- R1,300–R2,500/m²
- Sanding and sealing an existing timber floor
- R230–R450/m²
- Engineered oak boards, supply only
- R800–R1,425/m²
See the full wooden flooring cost guideGet exact prices
Estimates only, last checked 28 October 2026. Get quotes for an accurate price for your job.
Before you hire: a wooden flooring checklist
Wood is a natural material that moves with the seasons, so installation skill matters as much as the timber.
Ask about moisture testing
Ask whether they'll test the moisture in the screed and the boards before laying. Skipping this is the most common cause of floors that cup or lift.
Get the timber specified
Ask for the species, grade, board size and, for engineered wood, the thickness of the top layer, since it decides how often the floor can be sanded.
Ask how it will be fixed
Glued, floating or nailed? Ask why that method suits your floor.
For sanding, ask about dust extraction
Ask what sanding equipment they use and how they'll control dust.
Agree the finish
Ask which varnish or oil is quoted, how many coats, and how long the room must be kept clear while it cures.
Ask about aftercare
Ask how to clean the floor and when it'll need re-oiling or recoating. Some finishes need it sooner than others.
Before you request quotes
The questions people ask us most.
Is it really free?
Yes. Requesting quotes costs you nothing. The providers pay to receive requests, which is how the service is funded.
Will I be flooded with calls?
No. Your details go only to the providers quoting on your job, up to 3 of them.
Do I have to accept a quote?
No. Compare the quotes, ask questions, and accept one if it suits you. If none do, you don't have to go ahead.
Are the providers any good?
More than 200 registered service providers quote through our network. Compare quotes carefully, ask for references and photos of past work, and use the checklist on each service page before you hire.
How quickly will I hear back?
The wooden flooring specialists who quote on your job contact you directly by phone or email.
What if I'm not happy with any of the quotes?
You don't have to accept any of them. If the prices are all higher than you expected, ask each provider what's driving the cost. The answers often show what the job really needs.
Is my information safe?
We handle your personal information in line with the Protection of Personal Information Act (POPIA) and share it only with the providers quoting on your job, up to 3 of them. Our privacy policy explains what we collect and your rights.
Wooden Flooring questions, answered
Is engineered wood real wood?
Yes. The top layer is real timber, bonded to a stable core. Once installed, it looks and feels like solid wood.
Can wooden floors be used with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood usually can, with the manufacturer's approval and a floor temperature limit. Solid wood generally isn't recommended over underfloor heating.
How often can a wood floor be sanded?
Solid wood can be sanded many times. Engineered wood can be sanded a limited number of times, depending on the thickness of its top layer.
Why are my floorboards cupping?
Cupping, where board edges rise above the centre, is usually caused by moisture from below. Find and fix the source of moisture before the floor is repaired.
Oil or varnish: which is better?
Varnish is hard-wearing and easy to clean. Oil gives a more natural look and can be touched up in patches, but needs re-oiling more often. The best choice depends on how you use the room.
Can old parquet be restored?
Usually, yes. Loose blocks are re-glued, missing ones replaced, and the floor sanded and sealed. Ask whether the restorer has matching reclaimed blocks.
How long before I can use a freshly sealed floor?
It depends on the finish. Light foot traffic is often possible within a day, but furniture and rugs should wait longer. Ask your installer for the specific curing times.
Related services
- Laminate FlooringClick-together laminate supplied and fitted, including underlay, skirting and levelling.
- Vinyl FlooringWaterproof vinyl planks and sheet vinyl for kitchens, bathrooms and busy family rooms.
- Underfloor HeatingElectric and water-based underfloor heating under tiles, wood and laminate.
- DeckingTimber and composite decks for patios, pool surrounds and balconies.
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