Tiling quotes from tilers in your area

Porcelain or ceramic?

Rectified tiles have precisely ground edges, so they can be laid with very narrow grout lines for a clean, modern look. They're less forgiving of an uneven floor, because there's nowhere for a level difference to hide.

Large-format tiles need a flat floor

Big tiles, of 600 mm and larger, are popular because they mean fewer grout lines. But the bigger the tile, the flatter the floor underneath must be, or the edges sit at different heights (called lippage) and the tiles can crack where they don't touch the adhesive. Expect a tiler to check the floor, level it where needed, and use a levelling clip system with large tiles.

What lasts: adhesive, coverage and joints

• Full adhesive coverage. Tiles should be bedded on a full layer of adhesive, not on a few dabs. Hollow-sounding tiles, which have gaps underneath, crack under load and come loose.
• The right adhesive. Porcelain, large tiles, outdoor areas and wet areas each need a suitable adhesive. Cheap adhesive is a false economy.
• Movement joints. Large tiled areas, and the edges where floors meet walls, need flexible joints so the tiles can expand and contract. Without them, tiles crack and lift, often called tenting.
• Waterproofing in wet areas. Tiles and grout aren't waterproof on their own. Showers need a waterproofing membrane under the tiles.

Re-tiling and tiling over tiles

Tiling over existing tiles is sometimes possible, if they're firmly bonded, level and prepared with the right primer, and it saves the noise and cost of hacking them off. It raises the floor height, though, which affects doors and thresholds. In showers, existing tiles are usually removed so a new waterproofing layer can go in.

Outdoor tiling has its own requirements: tiles rated for outdoor use, with a slip-resistant surface, laid with a fall so water drains away, and, in frost areas, products that cope with freezing.